New Orleans is known for its night time activities. How many times have you heard someone say, “oh yea! I went to Mardi Gras when I was in college!” And even though frat boys everywhere remember it with a gleam in their eyes, it is also a great place to visit with families.
To really grasp what you are stepping into, you (and your kids) must respect New Orleans history. It has been devastated repeatedly by fire, hurricanes, and Yellow Fever (not necessarily in that order) – to the point of almost non-existence. Yet, people return to the magical mouth of the Mississippi. Everyone loves it. It has been under the rule of the French, the Spanish, the Arcadian Refugees, the French again, the English tried (but did not succeed), the Confederates, the Union, the United States, and the unique government of the State of Louisiana. It has been graced with great wealth and stricken by immense poverty. From each of these experiences, New Orleans has maintained, grown, and tweaked its own culture to be inclusive of its diverse history. To say it is unique is an understatement. It is a gumbo of a good time.
So, what is there to do with kids?
French Quarter / Downtown
First, no visit is complete without a day in the French Quarter. Bourbon street aside, the Quarter is full of historical buildings and sites that can really fascinate the history buffs and the architecture groupies. We usually start on Royal street and meander as the mood strikes. There are street performers, cafes, antique shops, and souvenir shops. The nice part is there is something that will peak almost everyone’s interest, and the others can wait in the street while watching someone make quarters disappear while listening to a street band. We like to head all the way down Royal to Fifi Mahony’s Wigs — not only for the crazy wigs, but also for the unique Steampunk, wood carving and magical crystal and fortune telling shops in the area.
As you move through the quarter, don’t miss the side streets (North /South streets) where there are many voodoo shops and museums as well as pastry shops. Although teeming with the bar scene at night, during the day, Bourbon street has some spots you may want to swing by with your kids, depending up on how adventuresome you are. Learning the history of Marie Laveau and her true beliefs is worth a visit to the Marie Laveau Museum (and gift shop), as well as her tomb. Often misunderstood is the fact that Voodoo was a combination of Christianity and the religion of freed slaves. To Laveau, it was consistent with her beliefs as a devout Catholic.
Also on Bourbon Street is Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar. Not only does it claim to be the oldest structure used as a bar in the United States, but is also the haven pirates used for hiding out and “negotiations.” A lot of carriage rides (from Jackson Square) also include the history of the quarter and an opportunity to toss beads as your horse clomps through the quarter. So bring along some beads to make a kid’s day.
On the edge of the Quarter is Jackson Square, full of more street performers and artists, as well as Café Du Monde. Yes, it is touristy, but a ton of fun. For Café Du Monde, don’t wait in line, but go in past the guy sitting in the chair near the kitchen and find your own seat. The locals know this is a seat yourself place – and most of the time, the long line is because tourists are on their phones waiting on an engraved invitation and a spot to be cleaned. If you sit at a table, they will come clean it and take your order, and the tourist at the front of the line will still be staring at their phone waiting for someone to tell them where to sit.
After you load up on sugar, head east toward the French Market. If you have not already eaten, there is an awesome food court as you enter the Market. The Gazebo Café has great gumbo, burgers and bloody mary’s – and usually a band. It’s another great spot to cool your heels while the kids have a little freedom to roam the French Market for Gator-claw back scratchers and beads. The walk along the levee is nice as well as you head back toward downtown.
Along the river is The Audubon Aquarium. It is a great place to cool off in the heat of the day. It sustained some physical damage during Katrina, but the marine inhabitants were totally decimated because of the lack of electricity and care takers after the storm. Like the rest of New Orleans, however, rebuilding is in their nature and the aquarium is better than ever, boasting a wide variety of sea creatures – from jelly fish to otters, sea lions and sharks (that you can pet).
Eating in the French Quarter is just mind blowing for the number of choices and the range of food. It’s hard to find a bad place to eat. Some of our favorites include Brennan’s, the Palace Café, The Pelican Club, The Gumbo Shop, and GW Fins. But, you cannot go wrong just looking for someplace that piques your curiosity as you pass during the day. Reservations are recommending for evening.
Just outside the French Quarter but still downtown are other fabulous places to dine. Tommy’s Cuisine is tasty but less touristy. Mother’s is famous and good for casual fare such as debris po boys, but the lines are long so plan accordingly.
Mulate’s is a great casual Cajun food joint that often features live music. As much as there is to do in The Quarter, there is equal entertainment outside of its cobble stone streets.
Magazine & Museums
Magazine Street is another great area to kick around for the afternoon, and is relatively close to Tulane and Loyola. Because of that, it has a young, local vibe. Magazine features a long stretch of older homes and shops in the Garden District. Although you can get dropped anywhere along the street and just keep walking, we have particularly enjoyed the area around the Magazine Street Art Market. A good guide to this shopping/eating/strolling fare is found at www.gonola.com. Nice dining options include Peche Seafood Grille, or Le Petite Grocery.
The WWII Museum is also on Magazine street. Somber, yet well done, this is a nice spot to help you feel like your trip has been at least partially educational. The American Sector Restaurant is nice as well.
There are several Mardi Gras Museums to get into the spirit even if you aren't there for the event itself. Mardi Gras World is a good one. This provides a behind the scenes look at the creativity and planning that goes into the Mardi Gras floats and costumes. Some are re-designed every year, and some are crowd-favorite traditions. I would suggest you call before you go if you are visiting around Mardi Gras as the floats may be off display and in use!
On the other side of town is another unusual Mardi Gras Museum. The House of Dance and Feathers is basically a trailer in the back yard of a Mardi Gras enthusiast. You have to call to make an appointment to make sure the owner is home. It is not commercialized at all – and you may think “where on earth am I going?” But it is an interesting way to see the areas hit by and rebuilt after Katrina. And the owner could not be a nicer, more interesting character of New Orleans. It is an interesting display of Second Line memorabilia and a testament to inclusiveness at Mardi Gras. Besides, you will leave feeling like you have enriched his life as much as he has enriched yours.
Bywater & Marigny Districts
While on that side of town, stop by the Bywater and Marigny districts. Both have seen a gentrification post-Katrina, and are great places to see funky art and live music. Frenchmen street is right around the corner and well worth a few hours on its own. It’s a casual area with a younger eclectic feel and fantastic NOLA music every night of the week. If you're into folk art, or just want to see something kitchy and completely different, make sure to drop by Dr. Bob Art. If you happen to have a moment away from the kiddos, Bacchanal Fine Wine and Spirits is a unique place – even for New Orleans. Feelings Café is a quaint family owned restaurant with a great courtyard and appropriate homage to Elvis. Snug Harbor Jazz is a local favorite.
City Park
A little drive from the buzz of downtown is a local favorite: City Park. City Park is the oasis in the city for active kids. Bike riding, boating, fishing, strolling, and nature walks are all available. While you are in the area try out Mandina’s for great Italian food with some creole flare.
When you are tired of culture, shopping, eating and live music, there is always bowling. Rock ‘n Bowl is a fun place to get everybody’s wiggles out.
How to get around
New Orleans is very drivable, but it is also a great city to try out different forms of transportation. Ubers and Lyfts abound – and the drivers usually have great suggestions for good spots for the next move. Taxis are also abundant. Pedi-cabs (the bikes with the carts on the back) are a ton of fun to help you get around in the Quarter – or just outside the quarter if you are staying in the downtown area. (have cash). The street cars are also fun and cheap and used often by the college kids. www.norta.com
Where to stay
There are so many great hotels and bed and breakfast opportunities. But for kids, some options are better than others. Staying near Magazine street or along St. Charles provides a casual boutique hotel or bed and breakfast opportunity. For downtown, we stay near but outside the French Quarter so that it is an easy walk into the action with an easy retreat when you are ready for some quiet time. The Q&C is an adorable boutique hotel, with a great location, but the rooms might be tight for a family. Courtyard by Marriott has a hotel on St. Charles that is close to the action, but on the other side of Canal. The Ritz on Canal is lovely (of course) and amazingly kid friendly. There is an Embassy Suites on Julia St. that lets the kiddos spread out a little.
How to approach it
The most important thing is to keep in mind the nickname The Big Easy. Most restaurants are kid friendly to well-behaved kids. They either have a kid menu or even better, will help your kids find some version of grown up food they will like. I try gumbo in every place we stop. (I’m getting hungry just writing this), Don’t over-schedule. The best parts of New Orleans are found on the meandering afternoon, or by the Uber driver, or by a wrong turn. Soak in the city and enjoy the quirky locals who love this magical location enough to rebuild time and time again.
Some more detailed reviews are found below:
Jackson Square: TripAdvisor
Royal Street: TripAdvisor
French Quarter: TripAdvisor
Public Service: TripAdvisor
Café Du Monde: TripAdvisor
Brennan’s: TripAdvisor
Feelings Café Bar: TripAdvisor
Q&C Hotel: TripAdvisor